A conversation with Sattawat Nipatpokai (Dewey) – Johnny Wong’s Dumpling Bar
Located up the stairs towards the right side of Kinselas Hotel, Johnny Wong’s provides a small but intimate setting for night-time visitors to come in and fetch some of their favourite dumplings.
Dewey, the current owner, has been working over at Johnny Wong’s for a better part of a half a decade and has seen its many spectacular nights along with its fair share of challenges. Having gone through some tough periods since the 2014 lockdown, the bar entered new light after the lockdowns were lifted in January 2020 only for the COVID-19 pandemic to ignite another lockdown later in the year. Dewey remains very optimistic about getting through the pandemic and reverting back to the glory days of serving their bite-sized favourites to Darlinghurst’s most keen dumpling lovers.
Daniel: “Hey mate, so tell me about yourself?”
Dewey: “My name is Dewey and I’m from Thailand. I’ve been in Australia for 5 years and came over with a working holiday visa. I started studying cookery and studied hospitality management. I worked here for a year under a different boss for a year before I eventually took over. I heard this place had been around for 8-9 years and it’s been through everything. The 2014 lockdowns and the COVID-19 lockdowns. Before COVID, we were making some money, not a lot, but we were making money. I own this place with my partner. We used to have like 4-5 staff to help during the day and the weekend, but during pandemic lockdowns we had to start working for free to make it through. We have enough money right now to pay the staff but me, my partner and the head chef are working for free right now. We can do better. Many places have closed down but I think if we keep going I think we will be able to get through this better than closing down temporarily.”
Daniel: “A lot of places I’ve talked to, big and small, have been going through the same thing – no one is making a profit. There’s just enough to pay the staff and bills but that’s it. How did you come to buy this place?”
Dewey: “I used to work here as a bar manager. My boss decided to leave suddenly and the building owner asked me if I wanted to take over. The owner saw me doing the bartending, the money, tending to guests so he just asked me whether I wanted to take over this place. I took my friend (and current business partner) in and we helped each other.”
“Last year was really good. We do catering and used to do it for events upstairs.”
Daniel: “ Do you also serve the bar downstairs as well?”
Dewey: “Yes we do! They have very nice cocktails down there and when people are drunk they love to come up here and have the dumplings here.”
Daniel: “What’s the most popular thing on the menu?”
Dewey: “Um, definitely the chicken dim sims. Every Wednesday we have the $1 dumplings on the chicken dim sims and gyozas. People love cheap stuff so they eat a lot of it.”
We both share a bit of a chuckle. Can’t beat those cheap dumpling deals.
Dewey: “Before COVID, we used to serve hundreds of chicken dim sims and we make it fresh at the restaurant. Oh, and the duck pancakes, everyone loves the duck pancakes here.”
Dewey has a bit of a chuckle again as that would’ve been a lot of preparation. The $1 dumpling specials are still going at Johnny Wong’s on Wednesdays. If you’re keen for some dumpling madness and drinks, this will be one of your better options for a fun Wednesday night.
Daniel: “Currently, how many staff do you have at the moment?”
Dewey: “It’s only just me, my chef and my partner. And it’s been like that since they locked everything down. It’s my first business so it’s been quite the stepping stone. I still work at another place during the day so I come here at night, it’s pretty tiring. My chef here works for free!”
Many are caught in a similar situation as Dewey at the moment. Revenue is just enough to cover bills and costs to keep the business afloat.
Dewey: “We close on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. So that’s when we try to prepare all the dumplings.”
Daniel: “Are you still doing your $1 dumpling deals?”
Dewey: “Yes, on Wednesday’s and Friday’s.”
Daniel: “What’s your most popular night?”
Dewey: “Before it used to be Saturday’s but now it’s Fridays. I think on Saturdays people used to come out a lot but now they’re mostly around on Fridays.”
“The building owner wants to renovate the building hopefully it attracts more people. We’re currently running on a loss at the moment but it’s okay. We’ll try make it through. We still have fun!”
Despite that news, Dewey laughs and laughs with optimism. It’s his first business and he’s got a partner and a loyal chef who are willing to make it through without pay. It’s a struggle but they seem to be hanging in together very well.
Daniel: “What’s your favourite place to eat in Sydney?”
Dewey: “I love Thai food. My favourite places are Home Thai and Satang Thai in World Square. If it’s not Thai food, I love ramen! My favourite place is Yasaga Ramen where they’ve got that big bowl for $29.”
Daniel: “So, when it comes to Thai food, is it better here or in Thailand?”
Dewey: “I think Sydney happens to have the best food of every nationality. The same goes for Thai food. I mean in Thailand, it’s authentic, but not very ‘smooth’. The Thai food here, it’s been modified a lot, but it suits people tastes more.”
Daniel: “Now, there’s a huge representation of Thai people in this restaurant. Do you guys want to incorporate any Thai elements into your menu?”
Dewey: “We wanted to do noodles but the thing is we don’t have the proper kitchens. We can’t do super stir fries as we only have electric stoves. We don’t have the ventilation to handle high powered cooking.”
The interview ends there as the night begins to pick up – I did interview them on a Friday night. Dewey appears very humble, nice, and has an infectious enthusiasm to do well despite the tough challenges he and his team face. If you’re in Darlinghurst and want a nice place to eat some dumplings, have a few drinks and have a few laughs with the owner – Dewey and Johnny Wong’s dumpling bar is a place to be.